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Smith Island Sailing / Climbing Expedition, Antarctica
A month was spent sailing through the spectacular channels of Southern Patagonia, honing our rusty skills in climbing and filming as a prelude to our objectives in Antarctica. Most of our efforts here were of a general mountaineering nature and many worthwhile future projects were reconnoitred. This time was also used to develop the specialized sailing and anchoring skills necessary for the feisty and unpredictable Patagonian and Antarctic conditions.
At the time of the landfall, Smith Island was shrouded in the cloud that is almost always present in this area. Since it was imperative to land the climbing party as close as possible to a feasible route to the summit (travel lengthwise along the island being virtually impossible), it was decided to wait for a break in the weather at the nearest, secure anchorage 80 nautical miles away in Melchior Islands. In glorious weather, Northanger returned to Smith Island on the 27th of January and with the inflatable boat, managed to land the four climbers on a small rocky outcrop below the ice cliffs despite a persistent ocean swell. Northanger, left with a crew of four, returned to Melchior Islands to await events. Unfortunately, while the climbing party was scaling the ice cliffs to base camp, a pack strap broke on the pack containing their portable SSB radio that was to be used for communication with the boat (the one our friend Lee had lent to us!), and the pack plummeted 150 feet into the sea. This left the climbers with only a small handheld VHF radio, which had insufficient range to summon the boat in the event of an emergency.
After a quick stop in a crevasse for a brew-up, the summit was gained at 0200, the sun at its lowest below the horizon yet offering a cold ethereal glow to welcome the climbers to the top of Mount Foster. Descent was effected down the same route in softening snow and deteriorating weather conditions. Base camp was reached after 27 hours of continuous climbing. Amazingly enough, the climbers were able to contact Northanger. While climbing near the summit they were able to use the VHF radio and made contact with and Argentinean scientific base near where Northanger was anchored. Evacuation from the island proved to be easier for the climbers than for the sailors as Northanger ran into a stiff northerly gale on the way to pick up the climbing team. In the end, all arrived safely back to the anchorage in the Melchior Islands. To round out the expedition, we spent the next 6 weeks ski touring, climbing and enjoying the abundant wildlife of the Antarctic Peninsula. Then, riding a strong gale across the Drake Passage, Northanger disgorged equipment and crew in Puerto Williams on the 17th of March where she now awaits next year's adventures. Keri Pashuk & Greg Landreth Expedition members: Greg Landreth, New Zealander - owner of Northanger, climber |
Northanger is now safely moored at the yacht club in Puerto Williams, Chile after her return from a successful sailing/ climbing expedition to Mount Foster on Smith Island in Antarctica. Northanger left Victoria, B.C. in July 1995 with the added impetus of the " Shipton/ Tilman Award from W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc". The route took her sic crew of sailors and climber across the Pacific via Hawaii, Marqueses and Tahiti, sailing on through the Straits of Magellan and arriving in Punta Arenas in early November. There. Two cinematographers embarked to make a documentary for American Adventure Productions, rounding the number of crew to eight overall.
From Puerto Williams in Chile, we set off on the 6th of January to cross the pugnacious Drake to make landfall at the northern tip of Smith Island five days later. Smith Island, the major climbing objective of the expedition is the most remote island of the South Shetland Island group in the area of the Antarctic Peninsula. It's unclimbed summit, 6900' Mount Foster, was possibly the most sought after of all mountains in this region but until now has repelled all comers including two highly organized expeditions from Britain that had ship and helicopter support. Very few people have even landed on its shores let alone attempted to scale its rugged peaks. The legendary British explorer H. W. Tilman was on two expeditions to the island, the one in 1977 resulting in his and the entire crews disappearance in the South Atlantic Ocean.
Ploughing along regardless, the climbers set up base camp close to the edge of the ice cliffs and with enough food and fuel for a six- week siege, settled in. After an initial foray onto the central southwest ridge of Mount Foster (having been beaten back by poor weather and bad visibility), they decided to wait for another weather break an then go for the summit in one push. On the 29th of January, travelling as light as possible given the added burden of the camera gear, they set off up the ridge to gain the top snowfield at 5000'. We have since named the ridge leading to Mount Foster "Rick's Ridge" after the previous owner of Northanger who tragically died on Mount Waddington in 1989. Rick also held a passion for climbing the highest summit of Smith Island and had made an attempt in 1986, sailing to Antarctica aboard Northanger with the implicit purpose of doing so.  |
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